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Long before Oz Clarke made his name as one of the world's fi nest wine experts... he was perfecting his palate with milk.

By the age of eight, the BBC's No 1 booze buff could differentiate between the three types of white stuff produced by a trio of herds near his home in rural Kent.

Says Oz: "We had three farms each rearing Guernsey, Jersey and Hereford cows. "One farm put the cows out to graze on the marshes, another out on the fi elds, and one at the bottom of the hill.

"I used to revel in being able to tell which cows had provided the cream used in mum's bechamel sauce, or which milk was used to cream the mashed potatoes." Oz is best known for his TV wine and beer romps around the British Isles with fellow guzzlers James May and Hugh Dennis. His latest DVD, Oz and Hugh Raise the Bar (£19.99 Acorn Media), sees the television tipplers travelling Britain in a campervan, sampling the isles' home-grown beers, wines and ciders.

And while the booze was always fl owing at home for Oz, it is mum's hearty home-made pies that he remembers most fondly.

He says: "My mum was a colourful and boisterous woman, who, growing up in Ireland before the Second World War, lived through some very hard times. She came from a family who grew all of their own produce and knew how to make much with very little."

Oz has chosen his mother's fish pie as his signature dish. He adds: "When I cook this for my wife and family, it brings back such wonderful memories."

Oz's Fish Pie


Ingredients

400g skinless cod
400g skinless coley
400g smoked haddock fillet
600ml full-fat milk
1 small onion, quartered
4 cloves
4 eggs
2 bay leaves
1 stick of celery
Small bunch of parsley
100g butter
50g plain flower
1kg floury potato, peeled and cut into even-sized chunks
50g mature cheddar cheese
4 tomatoes, sliced

Method

  • Poach the fish. Put the fish in the frying pan and pour over 500ml of the milk. Stud each onion quarter with a clove, then add to the milk, with the bay leaves. Bring the milk just to the boil. Reduce the heat and simmer for eight minutes. Lift the fish onto a plate and strain the milk into a jug to cool. Flake the fish into large pieces in the baking dish.

  • Hard-boil the eggs then peel, slice into quarters and arrange on top of the fish and scatter over the chopped parsley.

  • Make the sauce. Melt half the butter in a pan, stir in the fl our and cook for one minute over moderate heat. Take off the heat, pour in a little of the cold poaching milk, then stir until blended. Continue to add the milk gradually, mixing well until you have a smooth sauce. Return to the heat, bring to the boil and cook for five minutes, stirring continually, until it coats the back of a spoon. Remove from the heat, season with salt and pepper then pour over the fish.

  • Assemble and bake. Heat oven to 200°C/fan 180°C/gas mark 6. Boil the potatoes for 20 minutes. Drain, season and mash with the remaining butter and milk. Use to top the pie, starting at the edge of the dish and working your way in – push the mash right to the edges to seal. Fluff the top with a fork, sprinkle with cheese and garnish with the tomatoes, then bake for 30 minutes.



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